Development of a Technological Flowchart and the Main Components of the Composition of a Cosmetic Product for the Prevention of Inflammatory Skin Diseases (Systematic Scoping Review)

Introduction. Inflammatory diseases of the skin and subcutaneous adipose tissue are widespread among the population of different age groups. Failure to classify them as socially significant diseases reduces the attention of medical institutions to this group of diseases. Moreover, since large manufacturers of cosmetics and perfumes have left the market of the Russian Federation due to the sanctions by Western countries, an urgent aspect is the import substitution of certain groups of goods through the development of new Russian preventive cosmetics. 

Purpose. The authors aim to identify possible composition and develop the block-scheme of the cosmetic product technology based on probiotic studies that are promising for the prevention of inflammatory skin diseases caused by changes in the skin microbiome.

Materials and Methods. To write this review, we used sources published between 2015 and 2024. We searched for the following keywords: «probiotics», «probiotic cosmetic», «acne», «atopic dermatitis», «Lactobacillus», «plant extracts», «probiotic composition». The studied collection of sources includes 80 publications published in Scopus, Web of Science, SciHub, PubMed, Google scholar, E-library, Cyberleninika, and 8 online sources. 

Results. This review has systematized the information on biologically active substances of various origins, including wild plants, which have a synergistic effect, in order to determine the composition and the technology of an innovative probiotic cosmetic product. The main components were determined and the form of the cosmetic product in the form of a serum was theoretically selected, which promotes maximum absorption of the active components from it. Finally, the block-scheme of the cosmetic product  technology was developed. 

Conclusion. Further research areas include screening of probiotic strains of microorganisms and their cellular components that have a preventive or therapeutic effect for atopic dermatitis and acne, step-by-step selection of ingredients to develop a formulation that allows the use of probiotic microorganisms in a viable state or their active components, development and detailed selection of the basis of a cosmetic product,  development of the technology and analysis of features of storage of innovative cosmetics.

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